Landscaping
Turfing and new lawns in Southport
A new lawn is only as good as the ground under it. We are groundworkers, so that part is our trade: old lawn and rubble dug out, the ground levelled and drained, fresh topsoil, then new turf laid tight and watered in.
Why new lawns fail
Most lawns that go wrong were laid on poor ground. The turf itself is rarely the problem.
Rubble under the soil
Common in new-build gardens. Bricks, concrete and hardcore get buried under a thin layer of topsoil, and the grass dries out and dies in patches over the top of it.
Bumps that were never levelled
Turf follows the ground under it. If the ground has dips and humps, so will the lawn, and the mower scalps the high bits.
Nowhere for the water to go
Clay or squashed down ground holds rain, so the new lawn goes yellow, soft and mossy. Fresh turf will not fix that on its own.
Not enough water at the start
New turf has no roots in the ground yet. A few dry days and it shrinks, leaving gaps between the rolls that go brown.
Lawn always soggy?
If the old lawn stayed wet for days after rain, the new one will too. We sort the water out first, with a land drain or french drain (a stone filled trench with a pipe in the bottom) under the lawn, while it is dug up anyway.
Land drainage and french drainsSand or clay: what your garden is sitting on
The ground changes a lot within 30 miles of Southport, and it changes how a new lawn needs to be laid. Every garden is different, so we check yours when we look at the job.
Sandy ground
Southport, Birkdale, Ainsdale, Formby and along the coast
Drains well, so it rarely gets waterlogged, but it dries out fast and holds little food for the grass. A good depth of topsoil on top, and more watering in the first few weeks, makes the difference.
Clay ground
More common inland, towards Ormskirk, Wigan and Chorley
Holds water and packs down hard, especially after builders have driven over it. It needs breaking up, good topsoil on top, and sometimes a land drain before the turf goes down.
How we lay a new lawn
- 1
We look at the garden
The size, the levels, the soil, where the water sits, and how we get a machine in. Then a written quote.
- 2
Strip and clear
The old lawn, weeds, stones and any buried rubble dug out with a micro or mini digger, and taken away on our grab lorries.
- 3
Drainage if it needs it
If the ground stays wet, a land drain or french drain goes in now, while the lawn is up.
- 4
Level the ground
High spots cut down, low spots filled, with a gentle fall away from the house so rain does not run to the walls.
- 5
Topsoil, firm and rake
Good topsoil spread, usually 10 to 15 cm deep, then firmed and raked so it is level with no soft spots.
- 6
Lay the turf
Fresh turf laid the day it arrives, rolls staggered like brickwork and butted up tight, worked from boards so the soil is not trodden in.
- 7
Water it in
A good soak straight after laying, so the water gets through the turf into the soil underneath.
- 8
Aftercare advice
We tell you how much to water, when to stay off it, and when to cut it for the first time.
Lawn levelling
A lumpy lawn is hard to mow, puddles in the dips and is no good for kids to play on. How you fix it depends on how bad it is.
A few small dips
You do not need us. Spread a thin layer of sandy top dressing over the low spots in spring or autumn, no more than a centimetre at a time, and let the grass grow through before adding more.
Slopes and big hollows
That needs the lawn taken up and the ground regraded: soil cut from the high side, filled into the low side and firmed in layers so it does not sink later. Then topsoil and new turf. With a micro digger it is a day or two, not weeks of digging by hand.
More on garden levellingLooking after new turf
- First two weeks
- Water every day in dry weather, early morning or evening, enough to soak through. Lift a corner: the soil underneath should be damp. If the joints start to open, it needs more water.
- Keep off
- Stay off it as much as you can for two to three weeks while the roots grow into the soil. Kids and dogs too, if you can manage it.
- First cut
- When the grass is about 5 to 7 cm long and you cannot lift a corner easily, usually two to three weeks in. Mower on its highest setting, just taking the tips off.
- After that
- Bring the cut down a little each time. Keep watering in dry spells for the first summer, especially on sandy ground.
The heavy part, done with machines
Stripping a lawn and barrowing out the soil is the hard part of turfing a garden. We do it with a micro or mini digger, from 1 tonne, small enough for most side gates.
What comes out goes on our own grab lorries. We are an Environment Agency upper-tier waste carrier, so it is taken away legally, with no skip on the drive.
Real turf or artificial grass?
We lay both. Real turf costs less to lay and is better for wildlife, but it needs mowing and watering. Artificial grass costs more to start with but copes with shade, dogs and no mowing.
Artificial grassQuestions people ask
Can you lay turf over existing grass?
You can, but it does not work well. The old grass dies underneath, rots and leaves the new turf sitting on a soft, uneven layer that the roots struggle to get through. Bumps in the old lawn show through as well. The old lawn should come off first, which is quicker with a machine than you would think.
When is the best time to lay turf?
Spring and autumn are best, when the ground is moist and it is not too hot. Turf can go down most of the year, but not on frozen ground, not on ground that is waterlogged, and in a hot dry spell only if you can water it every day.
Can you lay turf in winter or in the rain?
Light rain is fine, and actually helps. Heavy rain is not, because walking and barrowing over wet soil squashes it. In winter turf can be laid on mild days when the ground is not frozen or sodden. It roots more slowly, so it needs staying off for longer.
Can you lay turf on sand or clay?
Yes, both, with the right preparation. On sand, a good depth of topsoil on top so the grass has something to hold water and food. On clay, the ground broken up, topsoil on top, and drainage if the water sits. Turf laid straight onto bare sand or clay usually struggles.
Can you level my lawn?
Yes. If the dips are only a couple of centimetres you can do it yourself: spread a thin layer of sandy top dressing over the low spots in spring or autumn and let the grass grow through, a little at a time. For slopes, deep hollows or a garden you want flat, we strip the lawn, regrade the ground with a digger and re-turf it.
Why has my new turf gone yellow or got gaps?
Gaps between the rolls almost always mean it has dried out and shrunk. Yellowing can be dry turf, turf left rolled up too long before it was laid, or water sitting underneath. Water it well and it often recovers. If it stays wet and yellow, the ground underneath is the problem.
How long until I can use the lawn?
Light use after about three weeks, once it is rooted and you have cut it once or twice. Full use, football and all, after six to eight weeks in the growing season. Longer if it was laid in winter.
Can you get a digger into my back garden?
Usually, yes. Our smallest machine is a 1 tonne micro digger, narrow enough for most side gates and passageways. If there is no way round the side, tell us and we will work out another way when we look at the job.
What affects the price of turfing?
The size of the lawn, how much old lawn and rubble comes out, how much topsoil goes in, whether it needs levelling or drainage, and how easy it is to get a machine in. We give you a written quote after seeing the garden.
Also worth a look
Send us a photo of your garden
Phone lines open Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm, Saturday 8am to 1pm. WhatsApp a photo of the job any time.